If you truly want to understand the culinary heartbeat of Seoul, you must venture into its markets. Among them, Namdaemun Market stands as a colossus of history and commerce. But beyond the endless stalls of clothing and imported goods lies a narrow, winding alley that draws gourmets and hungry office workers alike. This is the famous Galchi Jorim Alley (Cutlassfish Alley).
Today, we are diving deep into Huirak Sikdang (also known as Huirak Galchi), a cornerstone of this alley since 1988. Whether you are a curious traveler or a local looking for nostalgia, this guide will walk you through the spicy, savory experience that awaits you. 😊
A Hidden Gem in Namdaemun: Huirak Sikdang 🤔
Namdaemun Market is vast, with over 10,000 stores and 1,700 types of goods. Amidst this chaos, there exists a specific section dedicated entirely to one dish: Galchi Jorim. Huirak Sikdang is considered one of the representative restaurants in this specialized alley.
Established in 1988, the same year as the Seoul Olympics and its neighbor Wangseong Sikdang, Huirak Sikdang has maintained its reputation for decades. The space is admittedly narrow and humble—a testament to its long history as a market stall. Despite the tight squeeze, or perhaps because of it, the restaurant is perpetually bustling. During lunch hours, seeing a long line of people waiting to get a taste is a daily occurrence.
Namdaemun Market isn’t just a place to shop; it is a piece of living history dating back to 1414 during the reign of King Taejong of Joseon. Originally a government-leased marketplace, it evolved through the Japanese invasions and liberation to become the bustling hub it is today. Huirak Sikdang carries this weight of tradition in every bowl.
The Taste: Spicy, Savory, and Deep 🥘
The main attraction here is, without a doubt, the Galchi Jorim. This dish consists of cutlassfish braised in a spicy soy-based sauce with radish and vegetables. At Huirak Sikdang, the fish is served in earthenware pots (ttukbaegi) or beaten nickel-silver pots (yang-eun naembi), bubbling furiously with heat.
The secret to their flavor lies in the consistency. A chef from the Honam region (known for its rich culinary traditions) has been guarding the kitchen for over 11 years, ensuring the taste remains unchanged. The broth is created using over 10 different ingredients, including kelp and anchovy stock.
Many people fear cutlassfish might be fishy, but Huirak Sikdang expertly removes any unpleasant odors. The result is a taste that is refreshing, clean, and pleasantly spicy (eolkeun). The radish at the bottom of the pot absorbs all the savory goodness of the fish and the sauce, becoming a delicacy in itself.
The “Rice Thief” Experience
In Korea, dishes that make you consume large amounts of rice are called “Rice Thieves.” Galchi Jorim is the ultimate rice thief. The unwritten rule (Guk-rul) here is to leave a little bit of rice, then mix it with the remaining spicy sauce and the soft, braised radish. Top it with a piece of dried seaweed (gim), and you have a perfect bite. To support this hearty eating style, rice refills are unlimited.
Generous Service and Side Dishes 🐟
One of the charms of this market alley is the generosity (inshim). When you order the braised cutlassfish, it isn’t just the main dish that arrives. You are treated to a set of basic side dishes including seasoned bean sprouts, kimchi, and the aforementioned dried seaweed.
But the star of the service is the Fried Galchi Tail. The kitchen takes the tail portions of the cutlassfish, fries them to a crisp, and serves them for free. This provides a delightful textural contrast—crunchy and savory fried fish alongside the soft and spicy braised fish. A steaming steamed egg (gyeran-tang) is also often provided, helping to soothe your tongue if you find the sauce spicy.
Menu and Prices 📊
The menu is simple, focusing on what they do best. Prices are reasonable for the area, usually falling in the 10,000 KRW range per person. Note that the braised dishes are typically ordered in portions for two.
| Menu Item | Price | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Galchi Jorim (2 Servings) | 20,000 KRW | Spicy Braised Cutlassfish |
| Galchi Gui (2 Servings) | 20,000 KRW | Grilled Cutlassfish |
| Jaban Gui (1 Serving) | 10,000 KRW | Grilled Mackerel |
The tables are close together, and the space is narrow. It is a bustling market atmosphere, so it might not be suitable for a quiet, private conversation. Be prepared to brush shoulders with other diners!
Location and How to Get There 🗺️
Finding the Galchi Alley can be an adventure in itself. The alley is located near Hoehyeon Station (Subway Line 4), Exit 5.
🚶 Directions
1. Come out of Hoehyeon Station Exit 5.
2. Walk about 240m into the market until you see a fork in the road.
3. Turn right, and then immediately look to your left. You will see the entrance to the Galchi Alley.
4. Walk past the famous Jinju Jip (Oxtail Soup) at the entrance, and you will find Huirak Sikdang among the line of restaurants.
Operational Information:
* Address: 18-3, Namdaemunsijang-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul (Namchang-dong)
* Phone: 02-752-7954
* Hours: Mon-Sat 07:00 ~ 19:30
* Closed: Every Sunday and National Holidays
Final Thoughts 📝
Huirak Sikdang is more than just a place to eat; it is a sensory journey into the traditional market culture of Seoul. The sight of piles of nickel-silver pots being cooked over high flames, the smell of spicy seasoning, and the energetic atmosphere create a memory that lasts.
If you are visiting Namdaemun Market for its cheap goods and vibrant life, do not miss the chance to try this “Rice Thief.” It is an authentic taste of Korea that has stood the test of time. Have you tried Galchi Jorim before? Let me know in the comments! 😊
